Foto: Carl Johan Rönn/Johnér (bilden är beskuren)

Kulinariska regioner som verktyg för regional utveckling

ARTIKELSERIE   Landskapsobservatorium kommer under sommaren att publicera en serie artiklar på temat ”kulinariska regioner i Skåne”. Landsbygdsminister Eskil Erlandsson har lanserat målet att Sverige ska utveckla ”gastronomiska regioner”. Först ut i artikelserien är en intervju med Paulina Rytkönen som fått uppdraget att projektleda förarbetet nationellt.

Berätta kort om uppdraget med gastronomiska regioner
Det hela började med att landsbygdsminister Eskil Erlandsson uppmanade LRF att ta fram ett underlag för hur vi kan arbeta med gastronomiska regioner som ett sätt att fördjupa och vidareutveckla satsningen Sverige – det nya matlandet. Arbetet bedrevs sedan i samarbete med Restaurangakademin, Jordbruksverket och Södertörns högskola, vilken jag representerar.

Mitt uppdrag som projektledare har varit att ta fram ett förankrat underlag för hur vi kan bygga gastronomiska regioner. Under resans gång döpte våra respondenter om projektet till kulinariska regioner som ses vara en mer inkluderande benämning och som omfattar kulturen på ett bättre sätt. Vi genomförde fokusgrupper i 8 av Sveriges län, samt ett antal seminarier där vi ställde frågor om hur vi ska gå tillväga för att bygga kulinariska regioner, vad de ska stå för och omfatta, med mera.

Vad är en kulinarisk region?
Detta har vi diskuterat mycket. Sammanfattningsvis skulle man kunna säga att det är:

      • Ett avgränsat geografiskt område som kännetecknas av en unik kulinarisk tradition, vilken bygger på den lokala och regionala maten, på lokala råvaror och förädlade produkter och på regionens gastronomiska tradition.
      • En organiserad och långsiktig kundnära plattform för samarbete, interaktion och samordning av resurser inom ett geografiskt avgränsat område.
      • Råvaror och produkter som präglas av regionens naturgivna förutsättningar (klimat, jordmån, topografi m.m.), platsens livsmedelshistoria, regional ”know-how” och kultur.
      • Den omfattar också en innovativ kraft som förnyar och utvecklar regionens primärproduktion, förädling och gastronomi.

Varför ska vi arbeta med att utveckla kulinariska regioner i Sverige?
Att utveckla en kulinarisk region är detsamma som att skapa samma gynnsamma effekter som t ex  champagne har på sin region avseende attraktionskraft, råvaror, mat, måltider, turism, utveckling av matkultur och främjande av innovationer. Syftet med de kulinariska regionerna är helt enkelt att bidra till regional utveckling genom att underlätta för intressenterna att skapa en plattform för en samlad marknadsföring av en region.

Det finns idag en växande efterfrågan på mat med identitet i Sverige och i världen. Svenska konsumenter efterfrågar också en möjlighet att få tillgång till mat som de kan vara stolta över, precis som italienarna är stolta över sina produkter. De kulinariska regionerna kan bidra till att fylla dessa behov.

Vad har ni kommit fram till?
Ute i landet vill man verkligen arbeta vidare med detta. Det skall vara en långsiktig satsning, man ska i större utsträckning arbeta på befintlig erfarenhet och kunskap från tidigare projekt och arbeta vidare med de strukturer som finns regionalt och lokalt. Därför kommer det att se olika ut i olika delar av landet.

Ytterligare viktigt är att en kulinarisk region är till för kunden, det måste bli bärkraftigt och lönsamt av sig själv, annars anser man att det inte finns en mening i det.

Vad innebär begreppet ”terroir” för dig? Är terroir ett begrepp som kan tillämpas i arbetet med kulinariska regioner i Sverige och Skåne anser du?
Terroir står för alla de förutsättningar som ger ett livsmedel sin färg, form, smak, doft och i slutändan också sin existens. Enligt den skånska dryckesstrategin är terroir platsens själ och på sätt och vis är det så. I Skåne finns det många unika platser med unika geografiska förutsättningar, där man haft olika produkter och olika traditioner när det gäller matproduktion och matkonsumtion. Att lyfta dessa skillnader kopplade till traditioner är något som man redan gör. Jag tänker exempelvis på Österlens äpplen. Där arbetar man redan utifrån terroir. Att multiplicera detta arbete och tillämpa det på flera områden tror jag att Skåne skulle kunna tjäna ytterligare på. Och jag är övertygad om att detta kommer att ske, i Skåne är man väldigt duktig på detta redan.

Vad är nästa steg?
Jag ser att regionala partnerskap för att arbeta med kulinariska regioner börjar uppstå där de inte redan fanns och de som tidigare har organiserat sig bygger vidare. Att fortsätta arbetet utan avbrott, oavsett var man tänkte börja eller fortsätta, är det viktigaste. I Västernorrland till exempel börjar man nu att arbeta med att ta fram en ”terroiratlas” för länet, de har valt ett geografiskt område, Höga Kusten som de tänker börja arbeta med. Det är ett exempel på vad man kan göra. I Skåne började man året med ett seminarium om kulinariska regioner och så har man arrangerat Skånes Matfestival. Alltså svaret på din fråga är att nästa steg är att göra det som passar bäst för den bästa regionen, det viktigaste är att se till att man har ett bra partnerskap och att man arbetar vidare.

Vad är det viktigaste att tänka på i det fortsatta arbetet? Ett gott råd på vägen till dem som ska konkretisera arbetet regionalt.
För att citera de svar som har kommit in under arbetet med rapporten så kan jag konstatera att det inte finns universalrecept utan ett tydligt svar från deltagarna i undersökningen var att alla måste bygga på vad de har, utgå ifrån de egna förutsättningarna, samt få möjlighet att arbeta långsiktigt.

Läs mer:
Slutrapporten ”Gastronomiska regioner – ett verktyg för regional utveckling” hittar du här.

Om Paulina Rytkönen
Paulina Rytkönen är docent i ekonomisk historia och ansvarig
för huvudområdet måltidskunskap på Södertörns högskola.

 

Skriven av Louise Andersson/Redaktionen
2014-05-27 14:28
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Om författaren Louise Andersson/Redaktionen

För mer info klicka på Redaktionen i högerspalten.

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